Textile company places rare bet on Turkey’s Kurdish south-east

Sunday 09/04/2017
Workers are seen at a production line at a textile factory in Diyarbakir. (Reuters)

Diyarbakir - In Turkey’s mainly Kurdish south-east, deeply scarred by conflict between state forces and militants, a textile firm that supplies companies across Europe plans three new factories — a rare bet the government can deliver on a vow to regenerate the region.
The government announced a $2.8 billion investment scheme for the area last September, hoping to win over the population with the prospect of economic revival be­fore a referendum this month on expanding President Recep Tayyip Erdogan’s powers.
The Iskur group, a supplier to fashion brands including Zara, Adi­das and Nike, sees its $100 million investment as showing the way for other companies from western Tur­key to take advantage of govern­ment incentives and lower wages in the east.
Undaunted by the militant Kurd­istan Workers’ Party’s (PKK) dec­ades-old insurgency, it has been op­erating a $30 million cotton thread plant outside the region’s biggest city, Diyarbakir, since 2014 but few others have followed its lead.
“We have opened a door in Di­yarbakir, creating an example for other investors in the west,” plant manager Ekrem Kul said as workers tended to rows of machines spin­ning thread.
Iskur halted expansion plans in 2015 with the outbreak of some of the worst fighting since the PKK took up arms in 1984 but Kul said it revived them after the govern­ment initiative. It aims to employ more than 2,000 people in the new Diyarbakir plants, up from 330 now.
Its optimism is rare in a region where, the United Nations said, the upsurge in violence between July 2015 and December 2016 killed about 2,000 people, devastated whole neighbourhoods and drove 500,000 people from their homes.
The ruling Justice and Devel­opment Party (AKP), founded by Erdogan, owed much of its early success to its stewardship of the economy after rising to power in 2002, improving roads, building bridges and hospitals.
The pro-Kurdish Peoples’ Demo­cratic Party (HDP) said the govern­ment has, however, failed to solve the problems of the south-east, where more than 40,000 people have been killed in three decades of conflict.
The government counters it has boosted per person income in the area to $5,000 from $800 with ex­tensive state investment.
Turkish Prime Minister Binali Yildirim promised new factories, housing, hospitals and sports sta­diums under the investment plan. Urbanisation Minister Mehmet Ozhaseki said that state invest­ments have focused on reconstruc­tion of buildings damaged in the conflict.
Alican Ebedinoglu, president of a Diyarbakir trade association, said he is sceptical private investment will follow.
“Every new government has made fresh legislation to provide incentives for investment in the re­gion but without peace and calm, these incentive packages don’t mean much. If there is peace, the region hardly needs any incen­tives,” Ebedinoglu said.
Erdogan won support among Kurds for spearheading a peace process in 2013, the first time Kurd­ish political demands had been addressed, and for easing some re­strictions on them.
Since a ceasefire with the mili­tants collapsed in July 2015, he has ruled out a return to negotiations, saying security forces will “annihi­late” the PKK, which is considered a terrorist organisation by Turkey, the United States and Europe.
In events echoed in other towns in the south-east, armed youths dug trenches and laid explosives in Diyarbakir’s ancient Sur district, which is encircled by towering Roman-era walls. Security forces fought back with tanks.
Security operations ended in Sur a year ago but there are checkpoints across the city and concrete blocks placed in front of buildings deemed vulnerable to bombing attacks on security forces that have taken place since.
Ebedinoglu said the fighting caused 500 businesses to close and shopkeepers shuttered their stores for weeks or months at a time when the violence surged, meaning they fell behind on rent and debt pay­ments.
The industrial zone where the Iskur thread factory is based is 20km north of the city, far from the focus of the fighting but it was not immune. “It affected our workers’ ability to come to work easily — their psychological state, their pro­ductivity. We experienced difficult days,” Kul said.
Household disposable incomes are about half the national aver­age of $4,500 in the south-east and official unemployment in some provinces is 28%, more than twice the national average, a figure some local business say is an underesti­mate.
In the four provinces, including Diyarbakir, most affected by the conflict, the HDP won about three-quarters of the vote at the last par­liamentary elections in November 2015. However, the AKP attracts greater support in less-troubled provinces of the south-east.
Diyarbakir, a city of more than 1.5 million, is better off than ru­ral areas. Apartment blocks have mushroomed and modern shop­ping malls add to the appearance of growing prosperity but Ahmet Sa­yar, head of the Diyarbakir Cham­ber of Commerce said there was a long way to go.
“For there to be a leap forward in achieving the economic potential as a region there needs to be an en­vironment of predictability, stabil­ity, peace and confidence,” he said.
For workers, too, a return of the ceasefire is vital.
“We did not have these troubles during the peace process, we could come to work easily,” said Ramazan Yildiz, an employee at the Iskur plant.
“We go home in fear in the eve­nings, we come to work in fear, thinking: ‘Will there be any prob­lem or clashes on the road?’”