In old Damascus, war threatens Syrian handicrafts

Friday 22/01/2016
Bahaa al-Takriti, who weaves the richly embroidered aghbani cloths, often used as table covers, shows off his products at his shop in Damascus.

Damascus - In his cramped workshop in Damascus, Mohammad Ab­dallah delicately etches wood­en panels inlaid with mother-of-pearl, a craft he worked at for more than a decade before the outbreak of Syria’s war.
As he works, Abdallah says he fears his craft — the intricate pro­cess of filling carved wooden deco­rative pieces with shells, bone or ivory — could be forced into “ex­tinction” by the conflict raging across his country.
“I worry for the fate of the Damascene mother-of-pearl craft because of the lack of labour and the difficulty in acquiring and transporting raw materials,” the 43-year-old artisan said.
Like many craftsmen, Abdallah had to abandon his spacious ware­house on the outskirts of Damas­cus when fighting broke out.
“My heart aches because the mother-of-pearl workshops in Damascus and its outskirts have dropped from 30 to only three or four workshops,” he said.
His own workforce “has faded in recent years because the labourers have joined the fighting or have fled” Syria altogether.
Local purchasers, stung by the devaluation of the Syrian pound, can no longer afford the stunning designs, he says.
Since Syria’s conflict erupted in 2011, more than 250,000 people have been killed and millions have fled their homes. The war has also taken a toll on the country’s re­nowned traditional craft, from or­nate wooden furniture to the rich, golden stitching of its famed bro­cade fabrics.
The artisanal designs were popu­lar among tourists, who generated about 12% of Syria’s pre-war gross domestic product (GDP). With tourism virtually non-existent and travel across the country growing more difficult by the day, crafts­men in Damascus are in despair.
Traditional cultural products in Syria, from songs and poetry to beautiful handicrafts “have been completely damaged by the cri­sis”, says Mohammad Fayyad, a researcher on cultural heritage.
“If the situation continues like this, there will be no more crafts­men” left in Syria, Fayyad told Agence France-Presse.
In 2009, Syrian craftsmen regis­tered with the national union had numbered some 18,000 with an estimated 39,000 unregistered, Fayyad said. By the end of 2015, 70-80% had left the trade, many emigrating after the destruction of their workshops around Damascus and in the northern city of Aleppo, another handicrafts hub, accord­ing to Fayyad.
Fabric specialist Samer al-Nuqta contemplates the vibrant pieces of cloth on wooden shelves in his workshop, which dates to 1929 and stands in the famed Hamidiyeh market’s “tailor row”.
He says he doesn’t know what has happened to his factory in Ain Tarma, on the outskirts of Damas­cus.
“We haven’t produced a single metre for about five years. Right now, we’re selling what we had in store in the warehouse,” he says. “I will sell what we have left in store and after that I may be forced to change my trade, which I grew up on.”
Bahaa al-Takriti, who weaves the richly embroidered aghbani cloth, often used as tablecloths, says his “weekly production has dropped from 60 covers to six — and some­times only three”.
“Out of six people that knew how to set the designs, only two are left,” Takriti said.
As it nears a sixth year, Syria’s conflict has also diminished the production of Damascene brocade, handwoven silk fabric ornately decorated with brightly coloured thread. Brocade became famous when former Syrian president Shukri al-Quwatli gifted a slot of the fabric in 1947 to the future Queen Elizabeth II, who used it as part of her wedding gown.
However, few foreigners now travel to Damascus to purchase the lavish cloth, and Syrian buyers can no longer afford it.
Ibrahim al-Ayubi, who has pro­duced brocade in the Syrian capital for decades, says good-quality silk is hard to come by and the price has gone up “tenfold”.
“The crisis had a really big effect on us because of the lack of tour­ists, which made up about 95% of our customers,” Ayubi says.
And in the corner of Ahmad Shakaki’s brocade shop in Damas­cus, a large wooden loom stands next to a small stool made of col­oured bamboo. Narrow shelves display the elegant brocade fabric that Shakaki painstakingly pro­duces.
“Our craft (is) essentially de­pendent on our sales returns, which in turn depend on tourists. Our situation is tough now, and we’re working with whatever we have,” he said.
“The war has made the new gen­eration reluctant to learn the trade. I am worried that this loom will stop weaving.”
(Agence France-Presse)