Festival breathes life into old Jeddah

Friday 17/07/2015
Saudi woman tries on a mask at a shop during Ramadan festival.

Jeddah - Residents of the Saudi Red Sea city of Jeddah are slowly returning to its historic centre, where a Ramadan cultural festi­val and UN Heritage Site status are giving new life to the old quarter.
The United Nations added “His­toric Jeddah” to its UNESCO World Heritage List in 2014, acknowledg­ing the city’s distinctive architec­ture, which evolved from the city’s centuries-old role as a global trad­ing hub and the gateway for pil­grims visiting Islam’s holiest sites.
The cultural festival, which be­gan on the first day of the fasting month of Ramadan, coincides with a broader tourism drive in Saudi Arabia.
The kingdom is targeting its own citizens as well as the millions of Muslims from around the world who undertake religious visits.
“We wanted to bring life back to this area after its people had aban­doned it, and we achieved that,” Jeddah’s Deputy Governor Moham­med al-Wafi said among the festival crowds.
He said a number of homes in the old quarter had been renovated but much work needed to be done in the historic heart of the kingdom’s second-largest city.
Among old Jeddah’s most famous attractions is the Sharbatly House, made of coral, where legendary British intelligence officer T.E. Lawrence stayed in 1917. Like other buildings in the district, including centuries-old mosques, Sharbatly House fell into disrepair before rec­ognition by the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) sparked a revival.
Sami Nawar, head of the his­toric area known as al-Balad, said several prominent families have reconstructed homes at their own expense and more than 700 resto­ration licences have been granted over the last five years.
Tourism and Finance Ministry officials are looking at how to help other owners fund renovations, possibly through loans, Nawar said.
UNESCO has noted the impor­tance of the “reduction of the rate of decay of the historic houses, which are often abandoned and squatted (in) by poor immigrants”.
While warning “negative de­velopment” could jeopardise the area’s character, it foresaw “a new virtuous circle”, thanks to renova­tion projects and involvement of homeowners and merchants such as Maha Baeshn.
Baeshn, an artist and poet, said the Ramadan festival encouraged her and other homeowners to take better care of their properties.
“The Jeddah festival brought life to the houses and the area,” she said.
The homes, some of them rising multiple storeys, are built of rock and wood, with decorated façades and large bay windows to help air circulate. This has the added ben­efit of creating cooling shadows outside the buildings.
UNESCO said the design and function of the homes reflects their adaptation to the humid cli­mate and to Jeddah’s prominence as a trading and religious centre. They include ground-floor offices and commercial outlets and rooms rented to pilgrims.
Only “scant vestiges” of this Red Sea architectural tradition sur­vive outside of Saudi Arabia, UN­ESCO said. Along alleys between the houses, the Ramadan festival features about 80 shops and stalls and a dozen restaurants — usually staffed by locals — representing tra­ditional trades and delicacies from the coastal Hejaz region around Jeddah.
“We have been running this busi­ness as a family for almost 150 years and this is considered one of the oldest professions in the kingdom,” Samir Jastania said at his popular shop selling Hejazi sweets.
Another vendor offers appetisers, pickles and traditional spices that reflect the cosmopolitan history of Jeddah, a city considered relatively liberal in Saudi Arabia.
“What makes me happy is that the people of the area run it all. It’s amazing,” said festival visitor Ali Jazar, 39, sipping a popular Rama­dan apricot drink known as Qamar­deen.
Although 2015’s Ramadan cultur­al festival in old Jeddah is not the first, the event has taken on added significance since the UNESCO des­ignation.
Wafi said that in its first seven days almost 130,000 people flocked to the festival’s open-air markets, games, traditional rituals, foods and literary discussions.
One visitor, Osman al-Rosaini, 45, said it is a chance to “teach my children about their roots”.
Mansour al-Zamil, who owns a gift and memorabilia shop, says Ramadan is just the start of his commitment to Jeddah’s old quar­ter.
“Opening this shop has been my dream since I was a child. I opened it in the historical city and it will be here after the festival is over,” he said.