Books, Fairuz’s music in Basra mixed-gender cafe

Abdul Ameer hopes his customers can lose themselves in the Arab literature stacked on the cafe’s bookshelves.
Friday 11/01/2019
The place to be.</strong> A waiter serves coffee to customers at the Fairouz Cafe in Basra. (Reuters)
The place to be.</strong> A waiter serves coffee to customers at the Fairouz Cafe in Basra. (Reuters)

BASRA, Iraq - Mohammed Abdul Ameer said his nostalgia for better days and his roots in the Levant inspired him to open Basra's first mixed-gender cafe since the rule of Saddam Hussein. The cafe’s theme honours the Lebanese singer Fairuz.

The southern Iraqi city, the home of Abdul Ameer's father, has since Saddam was toppled in a 2003 US-led invasion seen conflict, unrest, religious conservatism and an acute lack of jobs and services.

Abdul Ameer said he hopes his customers, mostly young Iraqis, can temporarily forget that and lose themselves in the Arab literature stacked on the cafe’s bookshelves while they drink coffee out of cups imprinted with Fairuz's likeness.

"Fairuz’s songs are associated with good memories. This place will bring people back to the past, to better days," the owner said at his Fairuz Cafe and Bookshop in central Basra.

"We learned Fairuz's songs during school days so we associate her name with nostalgia."

Mugs picturing Fairuz, whose soothing voice emanates from car radios in Iraqi cities and throughout the Arab world, are sold at the cafe.

Abdul Ameer grew up in his mother's homeland of Syria but fled to Basra in 2012 near the beginning of the Syrian civil war. The conflict, which began more than seven years ago with protests against Syrian President Bashar Assad, has killed hundreds of thousands and driven millions from their homes.

"Life in Syria became tough. Snipers and kidnappings became common. I decided to leave and find a new life in Basra," said Abdul Ameer.

The economics graduate's dream project -- to open a cafe that emulates the Damascus cafe culture -- has come to fruition and many locals are delighted.

"What I love about this place is the library and the good service. This place is quiet and free from people who try to restrict our freedom," said Samana Sajjad, a 23-year-old who works as a local radio presenter.

"After a long day, it's a place where you can forget your worries by listening to Fairuz and reading a book," she said.

Located where the Euphrates and Tigris rivers merge near the Gulf, Basra was for centuries a melting pot of Arabs, Persians, Turks, Indians and Greeks who left their cultural imprint.

After Saddam was toppled, conservative Shia-led parties took power in Basra, bringing with them a religiously restrictive lifestyle.

Young people in Basra took part in protests in September that turned violent, complaining of unemployment, lack of services and corruption.

Basra's oil fields bring in the vast majority of Iraq's oil wealth but the city suffers from power and water shortages like much of the country.

Iraq's population is predominantly Shia Muslim and much of its society in the south is conservative, with many women wearing the black head-to-toe abaya and public mixed-gender socialising often frowned upon.

(Reuters)